Wednesday, November 17, 2010

a little homesick...

So I think that maybe I (Lindsay) have been a little humbled this past week and a half or so by realizing that I too am susceptible to homesickness. Up until this point I have just been excited about everything new and different but perhaps now the reality of actually living here for 7 months is sinking in. I miss my friends and family (duh, I miss you all) and definitely feel slightly out of balance without the large support network I am used to at home. I just need to keep reminding myself that this is part of the process and certainly one of the reasons I did this: to challenge myself and live outside of my comfort zone for awhile.

That said, I want to share a few anecdotes from our daily life here.
For those of you who don't know, we still do not have a stove in our kitchen. "Cooking" usually consists of making sandwiches or salads or boiling eggs in our electric tea kettle. This past weekend however, we got the exciting news that a friend is able to lend us her gas stove and (empty) gas tank. Gas tanks here (even empty ones) are actually worth more than a stove so as soon as we heard this, we jumped on the offer. Sunday, Sara and I had what we considered a fairly comical though somewhat typical Ayacucho afternoon. We hopped on a public bus to go to our friend Roxana's house about 20 minutes away from downtown Ayacucho. Taking a bus is always an adventure in itself yet this was also our first time venturing to her house alone. However we made it just fine and then proudly rode back on the bus with our gas tank. When we got back to town it was almost 4:00 and we still had to do laundry. We pretty much ran to the roof washed all of our clothes and hung them up just in time for it to begin to rain. grrrrr. We actually ran through the center of town back to our apartment to take our clothes down. We already stand out here but two gringas sprinting down the street in the pouring rain is just something else. Perhaps this all sounds trivial, but it ended up being an exhausting afternoon for us and certainly out of the ordinary from our lives in the states. Next weekend we will venture out to Roxana's cousin Monica's house to get the stove, probs harder.
Finally we need to call the gas company and
have them come fill our tank...our goal is to have a functioning kitchen by Thanksgiving??? Despite my complaints of not having close friends, we do have a few friends and have invited them to eat some Thanksgiving food with us on thursday. We have no idea how many ingredients we will actually be able to find and are relying on one friend to make us a turkey...but we are going to try!



Not much more news for now other than I started teaching english a few evenings a week and on Saturday afternoons to make some money. I have only had two classes so far but I think I like it.

Finally, I thought I would leave you with a few examples of the KIVA stories we have been doing here at FINCA. Almost every day now, I am interviewing FINCA socias about their last loan cycle and their lives. Just in the past two weeks I have learned an amazing amount about these women's lives and seen lots of laughter and tears as they tell their stories. Of course, for more information I encourage you to check out kiva.org and you find FINCA Peru under the list of KIVA partners. However, since we don't have many pictures this week, I decided to post a few examples!



Isabel has 2 children, ages 8 and 12 and has been with FINCA Perú for about 6 years. She has a small food stand in which she makes and sells typical food from Ayacucho such as puca picante (potatoes with a spicy beet sauce), mondongo (hearty soup made from cow stomach and choclo) and chicharron (pork simmered with onions and spices for a few hours). Her husband sells household items and now is able to have an assistant. She and her husband have both learned a lot from the talks at FINCA Perú such as how to improve their businesses, be responsible and how to treat clients better. Someday she dreams of buying land, building a house and opening up a restaurant at her house,


Genoveva has been with FINCA Perú for 5 years and invested her most recent loan in her traveling produce business. Every week she travels 9 hours, both ways, to the city of Monterrico in the jungle to sell her fruits and vegetables. She has 7 children and 8 grandchildren. Despite business being a little slow right now, FINCA Perú has helped Genoveva save enough money to buy some land. She likes the positive energy at FINCA Perú and the work trainings. Genoveva says that she is really happy right now and wants to continue providing for her kids.



Sandra is 22 years old and is a single mother of two (ages 5 and 6). She used her most recent loan to invest in her business as a street vender. Sandra sells mostly sweets in the main plaza of Ayacucho. Though she admits that business has been slow lately, since joining FINCA Perú, Sandra has been able to increase sales and earn enough to better provide for her children. She likes the advice she has gotten from FINCA Peru regarding investing money, how to work hard, and how to be punctual with loan payments. Her dream is to one day start her own business selling clothing.


Hasta luego!

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

On My Own and Todos Santos

Hola todos! Whew...this past week and a half were quite eventful! Last week started off with the Lindsay getting a nasty cold that kept her in bed and out of work for about 3 days which means that I was on my own! Luckily we had made a script for our classes that week so I could use that to help me teach (aka pretty much read it word for word but by the end of the week I could improvise a little). The kids were all very sweet and patient about my lack of Spanish skills. We ended up playing a lot of chase games because it was a pretty short lesson...we also did a lot of map coloring! Que divertido!

Besides teaching on my own I also had to do the shopping which means that I had to brave the market by myself! The names of fruits and vegetables are vocabulary words that I quickly learned so the market wasn't really as scary as I thought it would be. I also perfected my "I'm skeptical about that price and think you're trying to rip me off because I'm a gringa" face. Although it may have only saved my a sol or two it gave me some much needed confidence to conquer Ayacucho alone. I even had the guts to hang out with a few of our friends without Lindsay there! Crazy! I'm being all kinds of social here that I rarely even do in the states. Needless to say my Spanish skills almost doubled last week! I wish I could say that made everything easier but, of course, the more I learn the more I realize I don't know. Ahh the joys of learning another language!
Another sweet sunset as viewed from our roof!

The end of the week settled down a little aka Lindsay got better and we were once again joined at the hip. This past weekend was Halloween and Día de los Muertos so we got Monday and Tuesday off. We imagined that we would have lots of stories to tell about all of the activities but in reality we both took it pretty easy (I ended up with a case of traveler's guts at the end of the week and had to take antibiotics).

On Sunday we met up with another gringa we met here and two girls she's doing a language exchange with. The girls ended up being really nice and Lindsay finagled an invitation to the cemetery the next day. Although we knew Monday wasn't Día de los Muertos, we weren't sure we wanted to brave the crowds on the actual holiday.
The cemetery

We met our new friend, Roxana, (that's right we have friends here) at the cemetery. Part of the road leading to the front gates was closed for all of the flower stands that had set up for the holiday. Inside the gates were huge structures full of what they call "nichos" which are the slots for the bodies. The front of the slots is painted, carved and/or inscribed like headstones in the US. There were quite a few people cleaning the nichos and putting fresh flowers in them.
A "nicho"

Waiting with flowers

The inside of the cemetery

Roxana also showed us the "crematorium" where they would burn bodies if their relatives didn't pay the "rent" on the nicho (they don't do this anymore but people still put flowers outside the building if their relative was burnt there). Even though we missed the main festivities, it was really interesting to see the cemetery. There was also a large festival/carnival nearby but we failed to find it. Oh well, maybe next year...
This family was offering a song to their loved one

The flower stands outside the cemetery

After the cemetery, Roxana invited us to her family's house for lunch. Always curious about the daily lives of Ayacuchanos we eagerly accepted. Her house is about a 20 minute bus ride away from our apartment so it was nice to see another part of the city. She lives right on the edge of a gorgeous valley called Watatas. Roxana showed us her beautiful garden complete with a fig and an avocado tree! We also walked around the valley little while we waited for lunch.
The valley!

Our new friend!!!

Here's another one just for fun!

Lunch as the traditional soup Mondongo. It is made with cow's stomach and choclo (corn with REALLY big kernels and a drier texture) and topped with yierba bueana (if it's not spearmint then it's a very close relative) Since my stomach still wasn't top notch I didn't eat much of the stomach but the broth and choclo were both really good. We ate lunch outside by the garden with Roxana's parents, her brothers and sisters and her cousins. It was a wonderful family meal and I can't wait to go back!
Turns out Roxana has an amazing garden behind her house complete with a few avocado and fruit trees! It was magical.

We thought we would make it out some on Tuesday but we had too many household chores to take care of. Our day began with washing our laundry on the roof (note to self: the sun is REALLY intense between 11am and 1pm here), checking the internet (barely worked), trying to call Aunt Jan (apparently international calling here is as spotty as the speed of the internet) and working on some stuff for FINCA. Basically a typical day for the end of a four day weekend.

We finally got some training on the program we're teaching, Aflatoun. Turns out we really like Aflatoun's philosophy! The only downside is that the training confirmed our suspicions that the script/material we were working with doesn't follow the Aflatoun model. However, we are re-inspired to work on the material the last 5 weeks of Aflatoun.

That just about sums up our last week or so. Our life is always full of fun chores that end up being more complicated/time consuming then they should be because we're in a foreign country! It's exhilarating and exhausting at the same time. We don't have much planned in the coming weeks but hanging out with new friends and continuing the trials and tribulations of daily life in Ayacucho!

Besos y abrazos de Ayacucho!